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The decline of Stella

stella2 Pete Brown has an excellent article in the Daily Mail. If you wanted a Beer Marketing 101 primer on beer marketing and why what’s on the bottle is often more important that what’s in the bottle, I’d highly recommend it. My Brodie’s Notes version is below…

By the time I joined, Stella was growing at an incredible 20-30 per cent every year. It was my job to analyse this success and make sure we didn't do anything to spoil it, researching consumer trends, talking to beer drinkers about their tastes.

It was a tough job - from 9am every morning we were all thinking about beer. Was 'refreshing' a better word than 'quenching'? Was Stella's assertive bitter bite an asset or a problem? Did the way the light caught the glass, making it shine like liquid gold, look good enough in the new commercial?

Inbev made Stella a priority global brand, and it started playing by big-brand rules. At the same time, supermarkets became increasingly aggressive in price-promoting beer, using it as a loss leader to drive people into the store.

The idea of a pint in the pub is under assault from all sides.

One brewery executive recently admitted to me, 'If the supermarkets could take beer off the shelves as soon as they'd got you in through the door, they would. Once you're in there, no one wants to sell it to you because no one makes any money from it.'

Since 2000, the price of beer in pubs has increased by around 40 per cent. In supermarkets it's actually fallen. As Stella nears a national average of £3 a pint in pubs, the same beer retails for the equivalent of £1 a pint in Tesco and Asda. On promotion, it can fall to as little as 67p a pint - in some instances, cheaper than bottled water.

Other beer brands do discount more often and more steeply than Stella, but Stella is the only one doing so that made a virtue of its expense to build a premium image. Increasingly people recognised it as a big brand. But not a particularly special one.

After the merger, Inbev instituted an aggressive cost-cutting culture. Out went the lavish TV ad production budgets. In came cheaper, high-visibility posters. Out went the embossed cans; in came a smaller bottle size for supermarket multipacks.

The beer itself, brewed in the traditional style with quality ingredients, had always tasted more full-bodied than its competitors. That put some people off. Inbev started to brew with maize, cheaper than barley, producing a blander-tasting beer.

Two brands that replaced Stella were Peroni and Pilsner Urquell, both brewed by Miller Brands. Peroni, with lavish ads recreating the film La Dolce Vita and a £4 price tag, reminds me in some ways of where Stella was ten years ago. Nick Miller, managing director of Miller Brands, disagrees.

'We're in a completely different market to the big mainstream brands,' he argues. 'We're in the "world beer" market - beers that are brewed in their country of origin (the Stella we drink is brewed in Wales) and that offer the consumer something genuinely different.'

I'm not sure about that. Some of these 'world beer' brands feel like a desperate marketing gimmick. Beers from countries such as Russia, Estonia, Brazil or Peru are sold at a premium to established brands and are considered fashionable simply because they come from somewhere we haven't seen beer from before. But inside the bottle, they can be very average. When they lose their novelty value, what's to stop them disappearing like any other fad?

There's another problem for the old guard of premium lager brands: as you educate consumers, they become more discerning. Stella has always been brewed in Magor, south Wales, and Samlesbury in Lancashire.

'There was a time when drinkers would not have been concerned by this,' says one industry insider, 'but if you spend years telling people your lager is genuinely continental they're going to be disappointed when they find out it's made in a shed down the road.

The comment from the Miller Brands MD is almost identical to the answer I got when I asked if XXXX Summer Bright Lager was competing against Corona (same clear bottle, same coloured beer, similar label). So similar in fact that you see comments like this,

I saw a bus stop ad this morning for XXXX’s new Summer Bright Lager. My immediate thought was “Those look a lot like Corona or Sol, I wonder if they are anything alike. I want some.” I’m not sure there is any logic in this line of thinking, but the marketing obviously worked on me, I picked up a six pack on the way home, along with a Corona for comparison. The six set me back $14.99.

But in beer marketing terms, they are completely different, “Corona are an imported beer from Mexico, we’re brewed here”.

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Scales & Ales redux

Fish and Chips I managed to get over to Bulimba to check out Scales & Ales at lunch today and – all bias aside – was very impressed. Started with the house-made bread rolls, Bloody Mary Oyster Shooters and then had the Barramundi Burger with chips and onion rings. All very tasty – and the chips are excellent. The secret according to Chef Frank is to blanche them in oil first, put them aside and then cook them off when you’re ready to serve. And do be scared to cook them well. It was a hard choice to go past an old favourite in the mussels steamed in beer, but I felt I should branch out and the burger was perfect for lunch. For beers, I had a Pike’s Oakbank Pilsener with the burger and then the Lord Nelson Three Sheets, well, just because.

The Pike’s wasn’t one that I’d suggested for the menu and hadn’t tried it for years and I had forgotten how enjoyable it is with a big fruity malt palate and bold but balanced bitterness with floral hops wafting all around. Good match with the barra. It also shows that contract brewed beers needed always be overlooked.

Chef and owner Frank Correnti and I are looking at doing some beer and food matches early next year and Frank has some really exciting ideas for beer-inspired seafood recipes that I can’t wait to try out.

If you live in Brisbane, or come for a visit, and feel like a feed of fish and chips with a bit of flare…and a nice beer…get along and try it out.

http://www.scalesandales.com.au/

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Ban glasses?

brokenGlass I have been thinking a lot about drinking lately (as opposed to beer), primarily fuelled by the intensity of the debate about ‘binge drinking’ that has rapidly been deteriorating into farce and hysteria. The most recent example of this came over he weekend when the Courier Mail ran a story headlined, “Woman on assault charges for glassing and punching” after a women threw a glass at a bloke. I don’t mean to make light of it, but is this a ‘glassing’? Call me old-fashioned, but even last week wasn’t a glassing when you would break a glass and slash someone with it, or break it over them cutting them in the process? This story is just a garden variety assault, not the extension of the terror on our modern streets. I’d even settle for that old favourite ‘alcohol-fuelled violence’ over ‘glassing’ in this case. When the media has the bit between its teeth there’s no stopping them…which is why the hotel and alcohol industries need to look carefully at their backyard. Alcohol is a cause célèbre at the moment and every media-worthy incident just sharpens the spotlight on alcohol and pushes the government harder to act – and the government has no ability to act precisely. Anything the government does won’t just affect the worst clubs and pubs, it will affect everyone. This was amply demonstrated when the Federal Government responded to malt-based alcopops by changing the definition of beer. Because one section of the alcohol industry wanted to act in a way that was clearly contrary to the excise laws, the brewing industry has been subjected to a change of the very definition of beer. Of course, it’s not a change that will hurt the big brewers – but it was a chance that will affect the small brewers who don’t have the ability to assay their bitterness or their sugar content, or just face greater compliance costs to prove they meet the requirements.

Returning to the Courier Mail story, forcing pubs to use plastic glasses wouldn’t have prevented this assault I suspect. If she wanted to hit someone, she would just as likely have thrown whatever was in her hand – even a plastic cup, used a pool cue or her bottle of vodka cruiser (I’m guessing here…call it a stereotype, but I’d be willing to bet that most pub assaults by women are caused by alcopop and cheap cocktail drinkers. I can’t remember the last time that a saison or robust porter was implicated in an assault).

Still, I have no real problem with the government mandating the use of plastic in places that have a demonstrable problem with alcohol-related incidents. I don’t think the plastic will do much – there are more problems caused by blokes getting into a fight and kicking each other in the head – but maybe the threat of having to use plastic and the potential loss of business that may come of it will get a subsection of irresponsible publicans to actually enforce the Responsible Service of Alcohol, rather than pour cheap, flavourless alcohol down their patrons throats and count the cash afterwards.

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Movember Update

Mo01Movember is 7 days old and the moustache isn’t quite taking. I would like to say the dodgy, self taken photo isn’t doing it justice…but it fairly accurately represents the look - I just look like a guy who hasn’t shaved. This week I am going to have to prune away all of the non-top lip whiskers this week which will reveal the natural shape of Mo… I think I’m well on the way to emulating Ian Watson’s 70s manual arts teacher look from last year…shorts and long socks here I come.

To offer some compensation for my humiliation sponsor my Mo, you can either:

•    Click this link http://au.movember.com/mospace/151321/ and donate online using your credit card or PayPal account •    Write a cheque payable to ‘Movember Foundation’, referencing my Registration Number 151321 and mailing it to: Movember Foundation, PO Box 292, Prahran, VIC, 3181

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Great moment in history

Not much to say about this one. It's a birthday card that my father gave me on my birthday last year. I came across it in a draw when I was cleaning up my office and it still made me laugh... birthday card 2

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Spinning the bottle…

PET Bottles An interesting spin on one of the big alcohol stories of the moment. I’m not too sure how many of the glassings in the current “sharp rise in glassing incidents” were caused by beer bottles as opposed to glassed. Not to mention I’d expect that the experience of drinking out of a plastic bottle will drive more drinkers to pour their stubby into a glass. In which case, it’s lucky that Conrad Jupiters has installed their toughened glassware otherwise the move may well have increased the number of glassings rather than alleviated the problem. While they have led with the safety line, they do mention the other apparent benefits of plastic which is the way other brewers are selling the PET bottles. I can see many of these benefits…though I’ll be interested to find out more about PET bottles cooling down quicker than aluminium and keeping beer cooler than glass.

It will be very interesting to see what the reaction to the PET bottles is. It won’t change the flavour of the beer at all, as homebrewers have known for years, and if it does lead to more drinkers pouring their beers into a glass and drinking it the way beer should be enjoyed, it will be a good thing for beer.

5th November 2009

Conrad Jupiters puts Patron Safety first.

This Friday 6th of November will see the first Beer in PET bottles sold in QLD. Conrad Jupiters are the first in Queensland to receive a shipment of Byron Bay Beer company product in the brand new PET (Plastic) bottles designed by Visy.

Conrad Jupiters led the way in bar patron safety by introducing toughened glassware in their major bars back in 2005. In January this year all glassware in both bars were upgraded to the top of the range toughened glassware, as recommended by manufacturers as the safest on the market. Now as an addition to consumer safety the PET bottles will be on sale from this Friday the 6th of November in both the Atrium and the PA Bars.

“This is the first PET product in Queensland that we have seen that has a good shelf life and keeps the beer fresh and cold”, explained Bar Manager Stephen Lawrie, “on top of this Conrad Jupiters are committed to making our venues as safe as possible for patrons and this is just one more step towards the high level we aim for”

Byron Bay Beverages partnered with Visy to rethink its packaging game plan. Using superior new technology in plastics, Byron Bay Brewery has created the perfect PET bottle that stores beer safely without compromising the quality or taste. The development is a response to the sharp rise in glassing incidents across Australia and introduction of new liquor licensing laws, banning the serving of glass after midnight at key venues.

The introduction of the PET Byron Bay Beer bottles is just one more preventative measure making the Gold Coasts premier entertainment venue safe 24 hours a day. This, coupled with the intensive training programs in Responsible Service of Alcohol all staff and security undergo, ensures that our patrons remain the safest on the Gold Coast.

“Conrad Jupiters is all about innovation and leading the pack, on this occasion we are very proud to be the first in Queensland to introduce this product to the market” explained Managing Director Stuart Wing.

UPDATE:

I probably should add that while Byron Bay Brewery has finally opened a brewery at Byron Bay (it rankled many that they didn't have one) the plastic bottles - and in fact all of the beer sold outside of the Byron Bay brewery/restaurant is still contract brewed. Not that there's anything wrong with that...it just matters to some.

 

 

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Mo beer, Mo Beer, Mo Beer, Mo Beer

Mo Logo Stacked MediumWe all have our private humiliations burned into our psyche. We also have public ones, often in the form of photographs of ourselves taken in our late teens. I had the misfortune of entering that stage of my life in the late 80s and so have an album of photos of myself in which I sported some truly embarrassing hairstyles, primarily a wide assortment of long fringes. Fortunately, it was a fairly short-lived stage of my life and some time around 1992 I found a boring and conservative hairstyle and have stuck with it loyally ever since. I say this because I am about to voluntarily subject myself to ridicule and humiliation anew by signing up for Movember. I know this will be the outcome because some people are meant to keep pace with hair fashions; some are meant to sport facial hair. Then there's me.

Many who have enlisted in this month of furry-faced fundraising are debating whether they will be going for the 'Tom Selleck' or the 'Chopper Read'. I will be hoping to merely avoid thirty days of public embarrassment.

Some men seem to have good moustache genes, there are women who seem to have better moustache genes than I do. With my inability to grow a respectable mo I could never have become a 19th-Century General, a World War II Spitfire pilot or a South American revolutionary. Rakish 1950s movie star, 1970s adult film star and 1980s Hawaiian Private Detective would all be callings denied to me because of my inability to sport the appropriate facial fur - amongst other things.

So November, Movember, will be humiliation for a good cause; the  equivalent of a turn in the dunking chair at a school fête. Please bear that in mind as I post regular updates.

Please give generously. My wife is offering a donation for me not to participate - having decided to push on despite her protestations, I hope to raise more growing the mo than she offered me not to. The details on how to donate and information about Movember are below.

There is a beer link to Movember though. I recall reading an article years ago saying that the Germans, who then dominated the world beard and moustache competitions, were such successful moustache growers because of their beer which was unfiltered and therefore contained lots of yeast (hefeweizen's remember) and therefore lots of Vitamin B. Vitamin B is apparently conducive to moustache and beard growing. So, starting this afternoon, I am on an intensive month of unfiltered beer drinking. Athletes do their carbo-loading, drinking hefeweizens and lots of Coopers Sparkling is the moustache growing equivalent.

Anyway, if you're interested, I'd welcome the donation to a very good cause.

 

Movember.

What many people don’t appreciate is that close to 3,000 men die of prostate cancer each year in Australia and one in eight men will experience depression in their lifetime - many of whom don’t seek help. Facts like these have convinced me I should get involved and I am hoping that you will support me.

To sponsor my Mo, you can either:

•    Click this link http://au.movember.com/mospace/151321/ and donate online using your credit card or PayPal account •    Write a cheque payable to ‘Movember Foundation’, referencing my Registration Number 151321 and mailing it to: Movember Foundation, PO Box 292, Prahran, VIC, 3181

Remember, all donations over $2 are tax deductible.

Movember is now in its sixth year and, to date, has achieved some pretty amazing results by working alongside The Prostate Cancer Foundation (PCFA) and beyondblue: the national depression initiative. Check out further details at: http://au.movemberfoundation.com/research-and-programs.

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Scott Vincent on Big Helga

IMG_6961Judging by the number of searches for Big Helga that have landed at BeerMatt, there is a bit of interest in this beer. So, here's an interview with brewer Scott Vincent that we did on the 4BC Beer Show last Sunday night. [audio http://beermatt.files.wordpress.com/2009/10/01-scott-vincent-interview.mp3]

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Bridge Road degustation dinner

Bridge Road owner/brewer, Ben Krause. Photo: Mike Curtain I am passionate about beer and food matching. In a country that for the most part considers pale lager to be beer and beer to be pale lager with, maybe, Guinness to be the only other flavour available, matching beer to food is a really important element in tempting people to drink more widely across the spectrum of flavours.

It can be a very hard slog to try and get restaurants and even bars to put more thought into their beer lists. I am commonly told by indignant restauranteurs that "we have an excellent beer list", when I suggest there is room for improvement. Their perception of 'excellent' is based on their wide selection of nearly identical lagers, many listed as imported despite being brewed under licence locally. So I always get excited to see hotels putting on high quality beer and food events. This one, featuring Bridge Road, looks a cracker.

I'm not going to be able to get along to this one, but if you're in Melbourne on Melbourne Cup eve and love beer, I suggest you do. I don't know Max Hotel, but I will be checking it out when I'm next in Melbourne on the strength of this dinner.

Where: Max Hotel 32 Commercial Road, Prahran

When: Monday, 2 November.

Cost: $95 (It does always amaze me when you look at something like this that if it was a wine dinner offering exactly the same value you would immediately add $50 to the price and no one would complain.)

The menu:

On arrival: Bridge Rd Australian Ale on tap Beer Bread with fromage frais & soft herbs

Seated: Bridge Rd Robust Porter Oysters cold Kilpatrick Smoked eel crouton

Bridge Rd BLING I.P.A Quail sausage, MT Zero Persian lentils, egg plant, preserved lemon

Bridge Rd Celtic Red Ale Pressed duck a l’ orange with pea sprout and frisee salad aged chardonnay dressing

Chevalier Bier de Garde Slow cooked pork neck, farro, turnips, pancetta & parsnips

Chevalier  Hefe Dunkel Chocolate tart with clove & tea sorbet

Chevalier Saison Meredith blue Goat’s cheese with bitter almonds quince & witlof

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Mac's Hoprocker

I generally don't post about beer availability for specific beers as it would be a full-time job, but the producer of the 4BC Beer Show is a big fan of Mac's Hoprocker and asked about this on air. I said I'd find out where she could get it and have received a few emails asking where listeners could get it as a result, so here is the list for Queensland... As always, the best bottleshop is not always the cheapest. A good bottleshop is the one that is small enough to deliver a personal service and order in the beers that you want rather than just sell what head office ranges, even if that service costs a few dollars more. If your local doesn't stock what you want, ask. If they won't get it in, go somewhere else.

image011BOTTLE SHOPS STEWARTS HOME DELIVERIES WILSTON VILLAGE CELLARS WINE ROOM ASHGROVE MARINA QUAYS TAVERN DRINX MARGATE DRINX SANDGATE TRANSCONTINENTAL HOTEL BOUNDARY HOTEL CALAMVALE HOTEL MOTEL COLMSLIE HOTEL MOTEL THE VINE LIQUOR MART THE VINE LIQUOR MART STAFFORD TAVERN OFF PREMISE ROSALIE FINE WINES MANLY HOTEL OFF PREMISE DRINX CAMP HILL PADDINGTON TAVERN OFF PREMIS RUNCORN TAVERN (GIANTS) WELLINGTON PT HOTEL ALEXANDRA HILLS HOTEL MOTEL CANNONVALE REEF GATEWAY-OFF PACIFIC HOTEL HARRY BROWN - PRINCE ALFRED RAINBOW BEACH HOTEL YANDINA HOTEL EAST END HOTEL SUGARLAND TAVERN OFF PREMISE EMBASSY HOTEL OFF PREMISE DRINX MORNINGSIDE INTERNATIONAL HOTEL OFF PREM CHALK & CHEESE TENERIFE FERRY ROAD WINE & BEER CHALK & CHEESE AUCHENFLOWER CHALK & CHEESE WEST END WINE @ ERA OFF PREMISE SPOTTED COW CELLARS THE WINE EMPORIUM FORT VALLE STAFFORD BOTTLESHOP DRINX AT BOONDALL STEWARTS WINE CO PORTSIDE PADDINGTON CELLARS DICEYS GLADSTONE JUBILEE HOTEL OFF PREMISE SPIRO'S BOTTLESHOP TOOWONG BELVEDERE HOTEL OFF (DRINX) FULL MOON HOTEL OFF (DRINX) SUN PALMS HOTEL MOTEL ICEBOX BOTTLESHOP OFF PREM. STEWARTS WINE CO SAMFORD CELLARS

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Not quite Hitchcock

Photo Credit: David Foxhoven Just under a month ago I went to Denver for the Great American Beer Festival. I really should have written something about it before now, but am still trying to get my head around the whole experience. Two and a half days, 450+ breweries and more than 2000 different beers, in a city with half a dozen really good breweries and plenty more quality beer bars...I described it in my notes as like trying to take a drink from a firehose. It was a blur and in a way I am still trying to make sense of it. So it was reassuring to see I was actually there when I cropped up in the background of this photo posted on US beer writer Carolyn Smagalski's blog...that's me, just behind Michelob brewer Adam Goodson's left ear...no, not the guy about to sip a big, foamy beer...further in the background looking like I'm wearing a black turtleneck (I'm not incidentally, I'll leave that to the wine writers.) I took over 600 photos in Denver and this is probably the only one with me in it.

The Michelob Rye-ters block (so named because it was brewed based on suggestions from beer writers invited to the event) was my first beer in Denver and was excellent. My notes accorded with Carolyn's, though I accentuated the balance of this beer and underlined my surprise at a beer like this coming from Michelob, a brewery I only knew of by reputation and from the watery Michelob Ultra that is available in Australia.

I have just filed a story for Beer & Brewer magazine about Denver as a great beer destination...the magazine hits the streets mid-November. I'll write more about Denver and the GABF in time...but I think I really need to head back next year so I can shake the feeling from my last visit that I was just a pebble skimming across a pond of beer.

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Scales and ales

Great name, great logo I met today with the proprietors of a soon-to-open, Brisbane-based upmarket fish and chippery called Scales & Ales. As the very cool and clever name would suggest, in addition to serving seafood they will also be focusing on their beers.

As someone who beats his head on restaurant doors trying to get them to be even a little serious about beer, I was excited to meet some restauranteurs who were enthusiastic about featuring good beer. It was only after leaving that I realised just how august the company I was in was. The chef is Frank Correnti, the man who ran the kitchens at such Brisbane icons as Cha Cha Char and Watt.

Frank and his wife Jane were after some advice in finalising their beer menu and matching the beers to the seafood. There wasn't much for me to do, they had a great list prepared already. If you're in Brisbane - which can tend to resemble a post-apocalyptic wasteland when it come to beer - I highly recommend trying the restaurant when it opens next Thursday. In addition to an unusually limited 'usual suspects' range to keep people happy, they have included some great beers including Lord Nelson 3 Sheets, Stone & Wood Lager,  are the first establishment in Brisbane to feature the excellent Schweinhund hefeweizen and Ace of Spades stout from Brewboys, Mac's Hoprocker and Meantime IPA, Pilsner and Wheat Grand Cru. I haven't tried the food yet but I'd happily go along just for the beers.

Scales & Ales Gourmet Fish Bar 5 Wambool Street Bulimba Q 4171 www.scalesandales.com.au

I should point out, I wasn't paid by the restaurant for my advice, it's just great to see a restaurant enthusiastic and serious about beer.

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And then there's Roger Protz

Roger Protz is a giant of beer writing...but I'm taller It's fine to have an opinion about beer and write about it, but a few beer writers write with authority. Roger Protz is one that does.

Read this and think of it whenever you hear of a brewery being bought by a beer maker promising not to make changes...

Update...

And then I came across this earlier post.

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A fruity fairytale...

Anything but sweet Thanks to Prof. Pilsner for tipping me off to this one that had me running straight away to the beer fridge for the  bottle of Jamieson Raspberry Ale that I had been meaning to try but just hadn't gotten to.

This ad is a classic...and accurate. As first this beer is an explosion of raspberry aroma that smells almost like a raspberry lolly. That is until the first taste and the raspberry tartness hits the palate and tells you that this is no mass market, sugar-soaked lolly drink. It's a fruit beer with balls and, as the poster says, anything but sweet. A perfect summer refresher (for those who don't need a 6-pack of blandness to feel refreshed on a summer's day).

Who cares if it looks as if Disney will shut it down (or has already) this sucker's going viral and hopefully the beer will too. I'm not sure who comes out ahead, the brewery or The Foundry. Both will do well out of this 'scandal' but either way I've just enjoyed a great beer and a good laugh. Well played lads.

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A beer with Chris Badenoch

No matter how well written a piece about beer is, it can't really give you the taste of a beer. Beer writing is more about preaching to the choir than bringing in new converts so I try spend more time putting beer in people's hands than writing about it. In a country that prides itself on the role beer plays in its national identity, it is often amazing how limited our knowledge of beer is. Chris Badenoch

While there are a lot of people working to change this, the man who has had the biggest impact on getting people to think a little differently about beer is Chris Badenoch...as in Chris from Masterchef as he is more commonly known these days.

Some Good Beer lovers

Chris made the top 3 of what I gather was Australia's highest rating, non-sport television show and he did it with a fairly unique approach to food - not least because he cooked with beer and matched his meals to beer as well.

Some Good Beer

Since the show finished, Chris has been flat out with beer events, both due to his fame from Masterchef and also his main project, BeerMasons, which I have written about previously. He was in town last weekend and so we joined forces to hold a beer tasting raise some money for a charity close to Chris' heart - the Royal Children's Hospital Music Therapy Unit. We featured an exciting range of beers from the Innspire range including Flying Dog, Rogue and Nogne O, had a great time and managed to raise over $1100 for the charity.

The crowd at the tasting was widely varied, but all were interested in both Chris and the beers - and Chris was very generous in his time speaking to everyone who wanted to meet him. It's great to see Chris using his fame to promote the cause of great beer (and raising money for charity). Beer needs more ambassadors and fewer marketers.

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A touch of glass

Some great quotes in today's Brisbane Times from my Good Beer Lunch partner, Ian Watson, about the Queensland Government's desire to change glasses to plastic at problem venues. The issue of violence and binge drinking are very complicated, but Ian is spot on. The Government only has blunt instruments in its arsenal to tackle issues like this. Politically they need to be seen to be acting but what they propose will do nothing to stop violence. However, unless both the licenced premises and the alcohol manufacturers look at seriously doing something themselves instead of creating palaces to drunkeness and the flavourless alcohol delivery systems they serve, the Government will act with their blunt and unsubtle but highly ineffective regulation, ruining the experience of having a few drinks for the majority who can drink without feeling the need to fight.

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My date with Helga

IMG_7003 There has been a trend over recent years to turn the descriptions “sessionable” and “refreshing” into a dog whistle call to those after bland and characterless beers designed simply to be drunk thoughtlessly and in great quantity. Whether that’s a bad thing really depends on how you view beer – that is whether you consider flavour or alcohol content to be beer's finest quality.

With summer around the corner this trend has continued with a wave of beers crashing down upon us that has left us awash in dross. So far we have had the nothingness that is XXXX Summer Bright Lager, the wretched VB Raw and the disappointingly plain Coopers 62 not-quite-Pilsner. So it was with great trepidation that I ventured along to the launch of Matilda Bay’s new offering, a dry Munich-style lager. “Dry” can be another of those euphemisms for blandness but with Matilda Bay’s pedigree in bringing out interesting beers across a wide range of styles I was hopeful. And I wasn’t disappointed.

Big Helgas for all

With much Oktoberfest fanfare at the Matilda Bay Garage, Big Helga was unveiled. While easy-drinking and approachable are two adjectives that can be used to describe her, so are flavoursome, complex and generous. It is a light lager and not with the biscuity malt character of some Oktoberfest lagers, but she comes with sweet malt profile with the "dry" coming from a balanced hop character that spreads across the palate leaving a dry mouthfeel. While this sounds like the claims made by many of the new beers on offer, at 20 IBUs Helga is almost three times as bitter as the offering from XXXX. However the bitterness isn’t overt, nor the sweetness cloying.

Matilda Bay's Scott Vincent

Helga is deceptively complex for a lightish lager and I agree with brewer Scott Vincent that it’s a beer that won’t overwhelm or frighten the average lager drinker but can still reward the genuine beer lover. It’s a rare occasion that I spend a day happily drinking the same beer - or at least the same style of beer - but having done that yesterday I can say that Helga keeps on giving. There's plenty there to keep you going one with and that seemed to be the view of most there. It’s not a great beer or an earth shaker, but it is a clever beer. In a perfect world, this is the type of beer that would be considered “sessional” and “refreshing”.

It will be very interesting to see whether it finds a market – it deserves to. At the moment Helga is on tap at select venues and will be available in bottles by February.

DisclaimerIn the interests of full disclosure, I was a guest of Matilda Bay in Melbourne and they are very generous hosts ensuring that we all enjoyed a thoroughly entertaining day of free food and entertainment – not to mention beer and the company of a statuesque 6’ 2” blonde beer maiden named Helga...all of which tends to flavour one’s perception of a beer. Feel free to take that into account when you consider the above review.

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Big Helga

I'm at The Matilda Bay Garage in Dandenong for the launch of their new beer, Big Helga, a dry Munich-style lager for Oktoberfest.  Following the success of Fat Yak last year it will be interesting to see how it tastes and if it reverses the trend so far this summer from the national brewers for ultra-bland beers.

Here's the official release...tasting notes to follow as soon as I try it for myself...

Fall in love with Big Helga – just like we did all those years ago Meet Big Helga – once you’ve met her you will never forget her . . . that’s for sure.

Strong-bodied, well-rounded and full of character, a nod to the Munich Oktoberfest lagers, Big Helga is Matilda Bay’s newest brew in an on-going journey of discovery and exploration of the world’s greatest beer styles.

Making her debut in October (no surprises there) at some of the best bars across Australia, the story of Big Helga begins with a Matilda Bay brewer who took a break, went in search of inspiration and found it in Munich at Oktoberfest, where he fell in love with a lofty blonde beer maid named Helga. . . well that’s the story he told us on his return.

Helga, he said, through misty eyes and with a croaky voice, could carry 12 steins of beer while his mates struggled with two. Helga was large, certainly, but she had a heart of pure Munich gold. Helga, he reminisced, should come to Australia one day and meet his parents . . .

She never came. So he made a beer in her honour instead.

Big Helga is brewed with malted barley and noble hops. It is kettle-hopped and after being lovingly nurtured during fermentation, it is then dry-hopped producing a fruity and fresh aromatic lager.

Big Helga is now available nationally at bars and pubs – any place where the finest beers are sold. She is only on tap but one day, we hope, if the good drinkers of Australia love Helga like we do, she will be available in bottle as well . . . Helga in a bottle, almost too good to be true.

Big Helga is perfectly suited to BBQ gourmet sausages (German of course) but she also loves curries, tapas, the occasional Thai salad and has even been known to go off with some Mexican . . . she is nothing if not versatile.

Here’s to you Big Helga – welcome to Australia.

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SOBA's response

Included for completeness:

Society of Beer Advocates (SOBA) Inc. C/O 11 Malda Grove, Khandallah, Wellington 6035

James & Wells HAMILTON OFFICE Level 12, KPMG Centre 85 Alexandra Street Hamilton 3204 New Zealand

Media Statement

September 21st 2009

SOBA WELCOMES DB’s CANCELLATION OF SAISON TRADEMARK

In response to a media statement issued last week by DB Breweries, New Zealand’s Society of Beer Advocates Inc (SOBA) welcomes DB’s decision to voluntarily cancel the registration of its New Zealand trademark of the term SAISON, which it has held since 2002.

SAISON is a recognised beer style brewed around the world and SOBA is delighted that DB Breweries’ action means any brewers or importers wishing to sell SAISON-style beers within New Zealand will now be free to do so without the threat of legal action from DB.

However, SOBA notes with regret that DB Breweries intends to continue to defend its trademark of the term RADLER, another well known beer style.

In response, SOBA re-states its assertion that no brewery should be allowed to ‘own’ sole rights to the use of beer style names. SOBA believes that any such ownership is anti-competitive and detrimental to the education of and choice of beers available to the New Zealand consumer.

DB’s trademarking of beer style names came to light at then end of 2008 when the company forced the Dunedin-based organic microbrewery, Green Man, to re-label its entire production run of its RADLER style beer, or face costly legal action. Subsequent investigation revealed that DB had also trademarked SAISON.

RADLER, the background:

- In 2003 DB Breweries, producer of the Monteith’s range of beers, was granted a New Zealand trade mark on the name RADLER and is now preventing other brewers from using it.

- In November 2008 Dunedin’s Green Man Brewery began making a radler-style beer, but DB’s lawyers soon served papers ordering the brewery to cease selling it. Unable to afford a protracted legal battle with DB, the microbrewery capitulated and relabelled its beer Green Man Cyclist.

- In response to the frustrations expressed by the Society of Beer Advocates (SOBA) Inc about DB Breweries’ trade marking and preventing others from using the generic term “radler” in relation to their beer, James & Wells Intellectual Property offered SOBA Inc the services of its specialist intellectual property litigation group on a pro-bono basis to invalidate DB Breweries’ trade mark registration for RADLER.

- In May 2009, James & Wells, acting on behalf of SOBA, issued an Application for Declaration of Invalidity for New Zealand Trade Mark Registration No. 700726 RADLER in the name of DB Breweries Limited. The case continues.

SOBA argues:

1 - That ‘radler’ - like Pilsener, porter, brown ale, bock etc. - is a generic name for a recognised style of beer and should therefore not be permitted to be a term owned by one brewery. A simple search of the internet will give an indication of the number of breweries producing radlers.

2 - That DB was most certainly well aware that ‘radler’ is a recognised style of beer. Indeed Monteith’s own website acknowledges radler’s stylistic heritage, stating, “The style originates from Bavaria and was first created in the early 1920's…”

About SOBA:

- The Society of Beer Advocates (SOBA) is an independent, non-profit society whose main aim is promoting a wider availability of better quality beer. SOBA is a growing consumer organisation which seeks to encourage the broader availability and appreciation of high quality beers through education and a sensible approach to drinking.

Website: soba.org.nz

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A win...or maybe a draw

Thanks to Geoff Griggs for just updating me on the latest in the Monteith's trademark saga. DB Breweries has cancelled the registration of its saison trademark, but not radler. The full media release is below, but it comes down to 'we're not using saison so will relinquish it, but we're using radler and so we won't relinquish that'.

Interestingly, even in their own media release they refer to it as 'Monteith's Radler' rather than just Radler, the former being the brand name they should have registered - as it is a brand name, radler is a style. If the term 'radler' was so distinctive to Monteith's that it needs to be trademarked to protect their investment, you might have thought they wouldn't need the qualifier.

Still, congratulations to DB Breweries for taking this step. Hopefully they will relinquish the radler trademark too before it gets too hot to really enjoy the Monteith's Winter Ale that's sitting impatiently in my cellar since the boycott.

Media Statement

September 2009

DB CANCELS SAISON TRADEMARK

DB Breweries is in the process of cancelling the registration of its Saison trademark with the Intellectual Property Office of New Zealand (IPONZ). The company has held the trademark since April 2002.

DB Breweries’ general manager marketing Clare Morgan says the decision to cancel the trademark was a logical one given the company hasn’t produced Saison for a considerable time.

“We haven’t brewed Monteith's Saison for six years and we have no intention of re-launching it to the market as it no longer fits our current Monteith’s portfolio. The brand was very well received when it was first launched but we ceased production in 2003.”

Clare Morgan says the cancellation of the Saison trademark has no bearing on the company’s ‘Radler’ trademark.

“Monteith’s Radler has been in the market for nearly 10 years and is one of our most popular variants. Our investment over this time has been substantial and reflects our ongoing commitment to its longevity and success.”

ENDS

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